Chick Feed and Nutrition: What to Feed Week by Week
The secret to a healthy, fast-growing chick flock after the hatch is the right feed. Wrong or inadequate nutrition means leg weakness, poor feathering and slow growth. The good news is that chick feeding isn't complicated — knowing a few basic rules is enough. This guide explains which feed to give at which weeks, the protein needs by species, supplements like grit and niacin, and what should never be fed.
Feed Stages: Week by Week
- Starter feed — 0-6/8 weeks: A chick's first feed is a protein-rich, fine (crumble/mash) starter. Target 18-20% protein for chickens; 24-28% for turkeys and game birds; 20-22% for waterfowl. Its fine texture is ideal for small beaks.
- Grower feed — 6/8-18/20 weeks: As chicks grow, their protein need drops; switch to a grower feed of about 15-16% protein. This transition matters for healthy skeletal development rather than early weight.
- Switch to layer feed — near point of lay: As females approach laying (around week 18), switch to layer feed and extra calcium. Giving calcium too early can harm the kidneys of young birds; timing matters.
Protein Needs by Species
| Species | Starter feed protein |
|---|---|
| Chicken | 18-20% |
| Duck / goose | 20-22% (+ niacin) |
| Turkey | 26-28% |
| Pheasant / partridge / peafowl | 28-30% |
| Quail | 24-28% |
Giving standard chicken chick feed to game bird and turkey poults leads to poor growth from protein deficiency — choose a species-appropriate feed.
Water: More Important Than Feed
Chicks must always have access to clean, lukewarm water. Keep the drinker shallow and add pebbles or marbles to prevent drowning. Refresh dirty water several times a day. Adding electrolytes/sugar to the first water of chicks that hatched tired or arrived by post speeds their recovery (details: a chick's first 48 hours).
Is Grit Necessary?
For chicks eating only prepared mash/crumble feed, grit isn't needed; that feed is already digestible. But if you give chicks greens, grain or anything other than feed, you must provide fine chick grit (sandstone) so they can grind it. Grit is like the birds' "teeth" — it grinds the feed in the gizzard. Oyster shell, a calcium source, is different from grit and is given to laying hens, not chicks.
Niacin (B3) for Waterfowl
Duck and goose young are very sensitive to niacin (vitamin B3) deficiency; a lack of it causes leg weakness and stunted growth. Standard chicken chick feed may not contain enough niacin for waterfowl — give a supplemented waterfowl feed or add niacin to the water.
What Is Medicated Feed?
Some starter feeds contain a low dose of amprolium against coccidiosis, a common intestinal disease in chicks (medicated feed). This can be protective in crowded, damp conditions. But chicks vaccinated against coccidiosis at the hatchery should not get medicated feed — the medication cancels the vaccine. Which is appropriate depends on the flock's situation; if unsure, consult a veterinarian.
What to Avoid
- Moldy/wet spoiled feed: Mold toxins (mycotoxins) cause serious harm in chicks; never give it.
- Salty, sugary, spiced human food: A chick's digestion and kidneys aren't suited to these.
- Too many treats: Greens or small treats should not exceed 10% of total feed; balanced starter must be the main food.
- Toxic foods: Avocado, chocolate, raw beans and moldy bread are poisonous to poultry.
Teaching the First Feed
When chicks are moved to the brooder, sprinkle the first day's feed on paper over the bedding so they find it easily; move to a feeder after a few days. They don't know how to drink; dipping a few chicks' beaks in water teaches the others. The general setup is in our brooder guide. Insufficient feeder space and protein deficiency also trigger pecking — see pecking and cannibalism.
The Most Common Mistakes
- Giving standard chicken feed to game bird/turkey poults (too little protein).
- Not supplementing niacin for waterfowl (leg weakness).
- Giving calcium (oyster shell) too early to young birds not yet laying.
- Giving greens/grain without providing grit (digestive problems).
- Giving moldy feed or too many treats.
Well-fed chicks grow even better with regular tracking. You can follow the incubation and post-hatch calendar in the KuluçkaTakip app and find the best breed for your goal in our breed selection guide.
Frequently Asked Questions
What feed do you give chicks?
For the first 6-8 weeks give a protein-rich, fine starter feed (18-20% protein for chickens). Then switch to a grower feed of about 15-16% protein, and near laying to a calcium layer feed. Game birds and turkeys need a higher-protein feed.
What do you add to chicks' water?
For healthy chicks, plain, clean, lukewarm water is enough. For chicks that hatched tired, arrived by post or are weak, adding electrolytes or a pinch of sugar to the first water speeds recovery. Add pebbles to the drinker to prevent drowning.
Do chicks need grit?
Not for chicks eating only prepared mash/crumble feed. But if you give greens, grain or anything other than feed, fine chick grit (sandstone) is essential so they can grind it. Grit and the calcium source oyster shell are different things.
What is medicated chick feed?
A starter feed containing a low dose of amprolium against coccidiosis; it can be protective in crowded, damp conditions. But it isn't given to chicks vaccinated against coccidiosis at the hatchery — the medication cancels the vaccine.
Do chicks eat greens?
Yes, but in small amounts and as a treat. Greens and treats should not exceed 10% of total feed; the main food must be a balanced starter. If you give greens, also provide grit for digestion.